carnival

Happy Fat Tuesday from Dili!

left/right/wrong

When asked what side of the road people drive on over here my answer is "both."  I'm sorry to report, but they are the worst drivers in the entire world.  Traffic is in a constant battle for space and speed.  Motorbikes cut in front of their much larger counterparts (taxis, SUVs, armored UN vehicles) like we are all playing a game of chicken at summer camp without consequences.  Taxis rarely go over 25 km/hr and creep from left to right as though they have forgotten what they are doing.  We merge from the left and right simply because we can.  To complicate the situation, aside from the skills of the actual driver the roads have potholes the size and depth of small livestock, there are rarely stoplights, and roads that are one way are virtually never marked.  


No matter where I go in Dili cabs always honk.  The funny thing is if I need one, a honk doesn't always mean "I'm available to take you where you want to go."  It could mean "Hi foreigner, my taxi is full but I'll just want to let you know how unavailable I really am- chew on that."  Or, "Hey female- I acknowledge you waking on the road and wanted to let you know I am a man with a car full of my teenage friends.  We smoke Indonesian cigarettes while driving and playing music so loud it would be against regulation at a Dead concert. Let's talk."


It's a veritable cornucopia of danger where, as a passenger, our (tinted) view of outside life goes on before us like we are watching a funny little movie.


That said- there is always an upside!  Here are the things I am grateful for when getting in a taxi:

1. Air conditioning. Yeah right.
2. Functioning windows. I gave up on A/C long ago (I mean really).
3. The driver acknowledges in some way (a nod, a facial movement- either smile or grimace, or if I am lucky some sort of audible noise- or even a combination of both!) that he knows where I have requested to be taken.  (Though 50% of the time he is lying).  And yes, every single taxi driver in Timor is a man so I will use the pronoun "he."
4. I can open the taxi door from the outside. Having to reach your arm through the passenger side window (which may be rolled up and stuck at a very awkward level to actually reach the inside of the door handle) is always dirty and mostly unsuccessful which then requires having to go around the other side of the car to enter the cab (if this door is actually functional as well).
5. I can open the taxi door from the inside. Though coat hangers and various forms of woven reeds do make great reconstructed loops that, when pulled at just the right angle, do open the door.  This is also advantageous in the event of a fire so I am able to remove myself from the flaming piece of crap.
6. There are fewer than 4 different types of competing scented air freshener. Dodging the various bags of scented rocks suspended from fishing wire across the sagging taxi fabric ceiling is tricky (though sometimes it is stapled back up to the foam ceiling in a pretty pattern, which is nice).  These lovely swinging sachets of artificially flavored coconut, fruit punch and spruce really mix well together along with the cigarette smoke and lack of ventilation.  Oh wait no they don't.  
7. Dry seats.  It's rainy season and we have already established that windows don't roll up.  Things are dusty.  Rain and dust creates mud, especially on fabric.  Try and explain that to your new colleagues on your first day of work.
8. Visibility.  The relentless heat of the tropical environment makes tinting and shading windows with various plastics and adhesives very popular.  So popular that most taxis don't usually have full visibility out of the front of the car.  I enjoy being able to see out of the entire windshield- but that is just me.  It usually helps with that merging stuff that they don't do very well here either.  Unfortunately I didn't capture a shot of the outside of the sunscreen which read to the public "Abuja."  Why the capital city name of Nigeria was on this cab, I have no idea.  But it was written in sparkly letters so, why not.

Note the multiple mirrors attached to the left side of the windshield.  Though it appears visibility is desired, they are in fact only an accessory.  We merge without consequence.


There are 2 visible air fresheners in the corner, one hanging from the mirror and 3 strung onto the backseat headrests (not pictured).  


This taxi driver was the sweetest. I didn't get a picture but the red steering wheel cover matched the back seat cover which was a cute red racing stripe.  

working for the weekend

It's almost my Friday.  I have a lot to look forward to this weekend-- a Carnival party tomorrow night, a Carnival parade complete with homemade crocodile float and a birthday party on a boat on Saturday, and snorkeling and a cookout on the beach Sunday. As I was deathly sick the last 2 days and seem to be recovered, I likely do not have malaria or dengue!


This little girl from the Tais market was my inspiration today.  As her brothers and sisters were playing in their neighborhood she was diligently doing her math homework. 


As our week nears its end may we continue to all work hard and finish the week strong knowing we did our best and earned our weekend.

crazy monkey love

I am happy to report that I finally saw monkeys while visiting Baucau over the weekend.


Even though they were caged they seemed happy, well fed and in general so adorable.   It was thrilling to see them up close and watch them interact.  I had to stop myself several times from sticking my finger in the cage.  Watching them use their hands and feet to get around their space was fascinating.   Obviously they are very dexterous, limber and they way they swing from place to place is so graceful and effortless.  Their cage was heartbreakingly small, but they seemed in good spirits eating their banana peels (no it's not just in the movies- they really eat the peels) and jumping from one side of the chain link cage to the other.  


The most common species of monkeys here in Timor are the long-tailed Macaque.  They live about 31 years and are not really endangered (according to the main site I looked at).


This little guy melted my heart.

fingers and toes

Hope you enjoyed this little bit of crazy monkey love.  


To my family and friends on this day that celebrates love, I celebrate you.  No matter where in the world I am or how far apart we are you are always with me in my heart.


Happy Valentine's Day.

full moon in baucau

This weekend I went to the most amazing full moon party in Baucau, a bumpy 3 hour drive east of Dili.  My friends and I left Saturday afternoon and arrived in Baucau around 7 pm.  


Leaving Dili, traveling the main road.

The water is amazing.

The road follows the sea the entire way.

Everyone fits on (not necessarily in) the Microlet.  One thing is for sure- on these high mountain roads they had a much bumpier ride than we did.

On the way to Baucau we passed lots of farmland and rice paddies.  People work them every day of the week.  

They reflect the most beautiful light at sunset.

When we got to the hotel my friends approached a nice older gentleman with whom they chatted briefly and asked me to take their picture.  I assumed it was a colleague. No problem! I started to recommend the move this way and that way to get the best background; they hurriedly encouraged me to just take the picture.  After the gentleman said goodbye to us all, but not before I of course stuck my hand out in a very American hihowyadoin kind of way and introduced myself, I found out that the man I was directing to better light was Dom Duarte Pio, 6th Prince Royal of Portugal. Basically if Portugal were to have a Monarchy, he would be the King.  Way to go me.


After our brush with Portuguese royalty we sat down to a late dinner and then drove to the beach around 11:30 pm.  The guesthouse bungalow setup was filled with cooler of ice, fruits (watermelon, passionfruit, lemons, limes, mangoes, papayas, dragon fruit, apples, etc.) and various kinds of mixers.  There were 2 small stages set up at various locations on the compound which overlooked the ocean.  In the moonlight it was indescribably beautiful.


The main area featured locally DJ'd electronica music while the second stage had a mix of Janis Joplin, the Beatles, and various 70's rock karaoke.  There were no lights to speak of- only the full moon (which was actually a waning gibbous as the actual full moon was this past Wednesday- but hey- minor detail).  People stayed until the sun rose.


I'm waiting on my tripod to come in my shipment of stuff I sent 6 weeks ago (thanks for slowing things down, customs office) which I will hopefully get this week so no great moon pictures- yet.  But this picture of the beach the next day was pretty amazing.  We swam in this warm clear water before heading back to Dili.  Truly paradise.

It was a perfect weekend full of great conversations, new friends and of course, the beach.  What more could a girl ask for?

it's friday!

I've been saving this photo for today because it is Friday and its always nice to end the week looking at something pretty.  When I go to work every morning, this is my view of the ocean as my road meets the main road.  Pretty spectacular.  Without fail, I smile every time I see it. How could you not?

Atauro Island (also part of Timor-Leste) can be seen in the distance only on clear days.  Today was especially beautiful.


I am lucky to live in such a pretty place.


Happy Weekend!

carolina blues

Even though I live approximately 9,956 miles away from the Dean Dome I still woke up this morning with butterflies in my stomach.  Game day.

Any Carolina/Duke basketball game is very important, as there are only 2 (during regular season), and it is crucial that Carolina win both.  Each team has the opportunity to outshine the other and win bragging rights for the glory that is the #1 rivalry in the history of college sports, which was also nationally ranked as the #3 most contentious rivalry across all US sporting events.  It's major.  Only 8 miles apart, each school has an undying hatred for the other.  It's a beautiful thing and I am a proud supporter of the winningest team- the CAROLINA TAR HEELS. 

Today I thought I would have to break a very important tradition in my (sports) life.  After all, I live in Asia and am 16 hours away from the relevant timezone.  Because I've been working on managing expectations of all things in my life this week, I just added this to the list.  

As a die hard Carolina fan I wore my carolina blue flats and my "Beat Duke" button all day (yes I packed it!) and had a great time telling people at the Ministry of Finance about the significance of today and educating the people of Timor-Leste about everything great, just and right with the world that is Carolina.

A miracle happened, and I ended up going to lunch at the only place in Dili showing the game and caught the last 10 minutes of the 2nd half.  I can't talk about the end because it wasn't pretty.  I'm still furious- dejected even.  And no, I'm not being dramatic.  But I take comfort in the fact that despite our unfortunate loss today, North Carolina still leads the all-time series 131-102.   Suck on that Coach K.

So Heels, we have a lot of preparation to do before the next game on March 3.  Please be ready to win.  I will be cheering you on again as I always have no matter where I am in the world, hoping for a W.