atauro snorkelfest

This past weekend I went to Atauro Island with some friends.  Its a quick 1.5 hr boat ride away from the hustle and bustle of Dili.  After an incredibly relaxing and lazy Saturday reading (I read an entire book in a hammock) and swimming, we decided Sunday would be filled with a bit more purpose.  For $3, we hired a local boat who took us out into the reef to swim around with some fish.

Ladies and gentleman, I give you Atauro Snorkelfest 2012.

I found Nemo (cinnamon clownfish)

Not sure what kind of coral it was but the beautiful purple hue reminded me of spiny purple icicles.

Is this not the most colorful reef you have ever seen?

Found him again.  

I followed this large school of black reef fish for quite a while. Their movements looked like a pulsating organ as they moved together from coral to coral to feed.  Quite beautiful.

This black, white and yellow striped butterfly fish, and the yellow latticed butterfly fish were so beautiful to watch.

Blue Damselfish

Fish matches coral algae. love.

Every color of the rainbow.

thankfulness

I have so much to be thankful for. So much.  

At a potluck for family-less Americans last night we shared what we were thankful for and a common theme ensued (and not in this order, Mom):

1.) Skype
2.) air-conditioning
3.) our jobs
4.) family
5.) friends
6.) close proximity to Bali
7.) deet

To this list I would add my health.  Our bodies are tested so regularly with the environments in which we live, the food we eat, the things we drink and how we use it.  After all, if we wear out our bodies where are we going to live?

I am also thankful for my chiropractor.  I enjoyed another visit from my friend Dr. Dobson this week and he gave me one of the best- if not the best- adjustments I have ever had in my life.  He worked on me for almost 45 minutes and really took a lot of time to explain the how and why of each pain or soreness I had.  I have to do a much better job of stretching.  The running I have been doing has been taking a toll on my body and I need to be careful so that as I up my mileage I do not injure myself.  The half marathon I'm training for in the spring is fast approaching but I will be ready.

I digress.

In all sincerity, I am thankful to be alive and to live a life where I have freedom of choice.  A loving family.  Wonderful friends.  Passion for life.

That is all you really need, no?

charming city, day 1

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

What a great city.  I love it here.  Cambodia is known as the "charming city" via signage across the roadways and underpasses, travel guides and the people who smile their way through the day.  I feel totally welcome and that people are genuinely welcoming.  I agree, it's pretty charming.

This morning my travel buddy Caroline and I got up and wet running at 7.30am along the Mekong River.  We jogged for about 30 minutes before stopping alongside a cute cafe and having a fresh fruit plate with yogurt and honey, and some coffee that wasn't burned during the roasting or brewing process- fantastic!!  Then we wandered along the streets perpendicular to the Riverfront area.  We walked past massive auto repair centers, outdoor barber shops, and beautiful fruit markets. We happened upon a spa because 1.) this is Asia and they are everywhere, and 2.) we were in dyer need of a massage.  We found a cute place and each had an hour-long full body massage for $4.  It. was. heaven. We returned to our hotel for some more coffee and fruit and then got ready for our day.  

We took our first tuktuk to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, at Security Office 21 (S-21), which was incredibly sad and horrible.  

It originally operated as a school but in 1975 was redesigned on the orders of Pol Pot for detention, interrogation, inhumane torture and killing of those detained.  This blackboard still had writing on it.

For almost 4 years this horrible outfit used chains, shackles, and other various torture devices on its prisoners.  

Over 13,000 people met their death here in less than 4 years it was in operation. Bodies from here were transported to the various Killing Fields sites across the country.  Really sobering, but an important thing to see.

After that we made our way back to the Riverfront and to a place called K-West for lunch where I had my first hamburger of the year (no kidding). It was heaven.  Then we took a tuktuk to the Central Market.   

The Central Market has everything you could possibly think of to purchase: jewelry (jade, faux diamonds, angry bird slap watches), household items (pots, plates, bedding), women's, men's and kid's clothes, puppies for sale, candles, religious paraphernalia, fresh fruit, meat, fish and prepared food stalls. 

The meat section was in fact refrigerated. 

We declined these fish heads...

But when we saw this grilled squid we had to have some.  It may have been the best squid I have ever had.

 

Then we took another tuktuk to the Wat Phnom Pagoda.

In 1372 Lady Penh fished a floating koki tree out of the Mekong River and inside the tree were 4 Buddha statues.  The statues needed somewhere to live so she built them a hill and a small temple and that is now the site of the Wat (small temple) Phnom (hill) Penh (her name).  The city is her namesake. 

The inside of the temple was stunning.  Every inch of wall space was painted.

I loved this little Buddha incense station outside.

Then we took another tuktuk to the port where we attempted to get onto a "sunset cruise" but it just didn't work out so we took our 12th tuktuk of the day and went back to our hotel. 

We booked our hotels for Siem Reap and tried to figure out what to do with our evening.  After much discussion we decided to walk 50m out of our hotel on 178 street to The Latin Quarter restaurant where we enjoyed prawn ceviche, gazpacho and chicken croquettes. And some white wine. And some sangria. There was a Halloween party with an awesome high-energy live band and we had an amazing time dancing until we could dance no more.

Love Cambodia.

tennis

Living here in Timor has given me the opportunity to get back into things I once loved.  How is it that we forget about things that bring us so much joy?  Life happens, I guess.

I played tennis growing up and for whatever reason stopped playing regularly over the last 10 years.  No more.

I now play 3 times a week at the University courts right behind my office.  It's extremely convenient and an excellent way to unwind and detach from the work day.

There are 2 courts constructed of large concrete slabs, and only a few patches and holes so if you know where they are you can avoid them.  The white and red building behind the fence is the University.  

If you look closely you can see in the far left corner of the court, there is a large greyish-brown banyan tree stump.  I guess they can't really remove it easily because of where it is, so they have been burning it every few days or so for the last 2 months. It's great when its really blazing and the flames are actually through the fence and the white smoke is being blown onto the court (into my face).  That is the side of the court I play on during my lesson so I can attest that poor/smokey air quality does in fact make it more difficult to run around a court.

One of my adorable ball boys.  I pay $2 and for an hour the kids run around the courts and pick up all the balls.  They all know my name now which makes my lessons much more entertaining. 

Partners in crime.

Covered bench area where I hydrate during the 95 degree, full sun, hour-long session of sweat, volleys, rallies and fun.  I would die without this shade.

taxis

I want to take a moment and acknowledge that I have been out of touch with a very authentic aspect of life in Timor since I got my little Mitsubitchy.  Driving around in air conditioning without any weird smells or holes in the baseboard of the car, safety, and listening to my own music has been a real treat and are the main reasons I bought my car in the first place. However, the bubble I have been driving around in has prevented me from observing the bustling streets of Dili from a quaintly decorated vantage point inside a taxi.  

My car is now sick (read: fuel pump clog/ filter and sensor totally screwed up/dead battery) and I am not sure when she will recover.  Knowing there is not a single thing I can do about the current situation however, I decided to Pollyanna it up and enjoy the (taxi) ride.

I have already listed my favorite things about riding in a taxi, I have a few things to add. 

For example, the driver has placed this lovely sticker on the rear-view mirror that can also be enjoyed by the passengers.  As a gender-sensitive person it thrilled me.

People in Timor are also quite supportive of their colonial roots.  This cab had a Portuguese flag tacked to the roof (note the purple heart-shaped "love" air freshener above the window).

The arrangement on the below passenger dashboard of stuffed St. Bernard, plastic toy lion, robot and some sort of compass reminds me of the few but joyous until-i-grew-up-and-found-out-whats-actually-in-them Happy Meals of my youth.  The airbag cover has been DIY crackle-glossed and of course you can clearly see "Vinnie" the (made in China) Pooh suspended from the rear-view mirror.  

In addition to these decorative items, the more impressive part of the taxi is of course the video screen embedded in the sun visor.  Embedded people.  I have no idea how he did it but this driver pimped his ride.  The music played through the radio perfectly (and loudly).  I enjoyed my 2 minute clip of noise and entertainment and jammed out in the back smiling to everyone we passed thinking to myself- this is what it's like to be Kate Middleton.

I took a video of the experience- perhaps you can also catch the Shamu pillow arm rest that my friend holds.  Don't even want to think about the nastiness that is a pillow in a taxi.  

Unfortunately I did find myself sitting on a tack by the end of the ride.  Quite the attention-getter.

Good times.

cowboy

mid week laughs

another beautiful end

banana flowers

Many of us who come from the Northern hemisphere or far above the equator are not accustomed to seeing the plethora of bounty that comes from a banana tree.  All parts of the banana tree are very integrated in daily life here.

Bananas (hudi in Tetun) of course grow in bunches, circled around a large stalk that grows and hangs heavily down the trunk as the fruit ripens. Upon harvest they are usually separated into quarters and sold in markets for $2 a bunch.  We have various red and yellow varieties, offering various densities, thicknesses, textures and sweetness.  The red bananas are my favorite.  

In addition to the fruit, the large leaves provide shade to those below, or are used as tablecloths for dinner or selling wares in the markets, umbrellas during heavy rain, and for cooking fish and rice. 

Aesthetically my favorite part is the flower which is the remaining commodity from the banana tree.  It is sold in vegetable markets where it is taken home and lovingly chopped and prepared with other mixed vegetables.   It is slightly starchy and bitter, but full of nutrition.  Lifting up the leaves reveals tiny bananas that would eventually grow into the fruit if it remained on the tree. 

I like the way it hangs in all its crimson, purple, and fiery orange glory.

first steps

I have posted quite a few pictures lately, rather than writing.  The excitement of living in a new place wore off after the first 2 and a half months and I didn't have much else to say that I felt was clever or worth reading.  I also got more involved in actually having a life in my new environment and didn't have time to come home after work and dedicate to posting something someone would actually want to read. (I realize I'm making assumptions about you actually wanting to read this now, but just go with it).  

Recently, however I have made more of an effort. A bit of writing, a few more photos. I do love taking pictures. There is something so intimate and special about capturing a moment in someone's life or in yours, and a gift to have that memory in such a permanent beautiful form. It's an honor for me, and I am humbled throughout the process.  

I've been feeling humbled a lot by Timor lately.

It has been over 9 months since I first arrived and I have been reflecting on my life here and about my life in general.  Where do I want to go next (anywhere), should I be planning more for the future (I am not getting any younger, but whatever), should I "get serious" and "settle down" (yuck), etc.  This time last year I was in the process of making a big career change from the private-sector back to development work. I was considering moving anywhere in the world (obviously) and my options were endless. The excitement of having limitless options is still thrilling and I don't think I will ever get over that rush, or feeling of ultimate freedom and independence that comes with it. I had just applied to a girls education program in rural Afghanistan and thought for sure I would end up there.  Suddenly the opportunity in East Timor came up and to fruition so quickly and easily there was no way I could say no. Stars were aligned.  

I have fallen in love with a new place and all its quirks and idiosyncrasies, and made it my home.  I have made tremendous, intelligent, interesting friends and developed a bit more patience (not too much mind you, don't get crazy), and learned so much about life in such a different way that it is hard to explain. Each moment at work or each interaction with someone I care about adds a new dimension to my life.  I am grateful for those moments and do not take them for granted.

On this beautiful, humid, starry night I reflect on the small steps I made a year ago that have led me to be here in this beautiful place, today.  It has been quite an amazing journey and I am ready for tomorrow.

The first step, my son, which one makes in the world, is the one on which 
depends the rest of our days.

- Voltaire

honey sticks

the beginning is always today

sunshine

betel nut

In Timor, as in many countries in Asia, people chew areca nut, commonly referred to as betel nut. It grows in much of the tropical Pacific, Asia, and parts of east Africa. 

When I took a trip to the mountains a few months ago I was excited to try it with a local family. It is usually shared in a group of people who want to be more authentic in their conversation. In some of the sucos (sub-districts) they will sit in a circle and chew betel nut before an important community discussion or decision. It is a mild stimulant and causes a warming sensation throughout the body.

The betel nuts are sprinkled with lime powder. 

Then they are wrapped in betel leaves.  

Much like chewing some good ole' Copenhagen or whatever kind of dip you prefer, the little package is placed next to the cheek along the gum line. As your mouth fills with saliva due to the acrid reaction among the organic materials in your mouth, the liquid starts to soften the nut and you slowly chew.  Forever. With a smile on your face. Because you are with a lovely family and this is special for everyone. And an honor.

It produces the brightest amber spit that unfortunately stains the teeth of most if its devotees (women), and is totally disgusting.  

sister love

jaco island

I was lucky enough to go on a spectacular road trip this weekend to visit Jaco Island.  Jaco is just off of the easternmost district of Timor-Leste, called Lautem and the village closest to Jaco Island were I stayed is called Tutualaa.  I am proud to say that Mitsubitchy made it down the treacherous 8.8km “road” (navigable only by a 4WD) and enjoyed 2 nights of camping on Valu Beach.

Here are a few pictures to document the journey.

Baucau- after a 3 hour drive from Dili, we enjoyed this Thursday night sunset and rising full moon.  We ate at a tiny beach restaurant after I recovered my stolen ipod from (child) criminals after some savvy detective work and a cash reward.  That, and not being hit by falling coconuts during our dining experience were worthy of celebration with several ice cold Heinekens.

Friday morning we left Baucau for another 4 hour drive to Jaco Island.  Around kilometer marker 200, I finally saw a Timor crocodile.

It was nearly 5 meters long.

This photo gives some scale.  Such a thrill.

Along the way there are beautiful Fataluku houses, which are traditional homes in the Lautem district, particularly in Lospalos.  These were decorated with ropes of beads and shells.

The beginning of Irasiquero Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Timor.

The view from the Pousada at Tutualaa.  The water is crystal clear even from the top of the ridge.

We enjoyed a full moon over Valu Beach.

On Saturday we took a ferry over from Valu Beach to Jaco Island.  We enjoyed a lunch of freshly caught yellow-fin tuna and another white fish that were both tasty.  My friend purchased 2 fish ($40 total) from the fisherman who ferried us over in the morning and they grilled them for us.  After a morning of hard snorkeling it was divine.  Sitting in the soft white sand, we ate the fish steaks with our salty fingers reveling in our good fortune (our view of the crystal water) and delicious feast.

Jaco Island is part of the famed Coral Triangle, an underwater area that holds the world’s greatest diversity of both corals and coral reef fish, and is protected by the Nino Konis Santana National Park. The island is considered a sacred site by locals and is uninhabited. There are no permanent structures on the island, camping is prohibited, and its only regular visitors are fishermen and expats from Dili like myself. 

There are not enough adjectives and synonyms for the word beautiful to describe this beach. 

The closest thing I could find are the words of Abhijit Dutta:

As a beach, it’s a brochure writer’s dream: Every cliché about blemish-less white sand finer than powder is true; every licentious poem about color-crazy seas, is true; every incredulous story about water so clear naked eyes can spy its bare heart, is true. But Jaco also has a certain silence, almost a spiritual calm.

Quite a special place.