paradise found

I’ve always wanted to take a trip to a tropical island with only a pair of shorts and a swimsuit.  How liberating to just pack a small bag and go.  I officially checked that off my list. 

After working this past Saturday morning I packed the aforementioned items into a much larger bag (I was planning to fuel the local economy after all) and hopped gleefully onto a rickety Merpati flight to the exotic, tropical and gloriously developed island of Bali, Indonesia. 

En route I was nonplussed to begin our descent into Denspar airport with this view.  Never fear!  Not even rain could dampen my mood.

A charming little taxi driver collected me at the airport and we braved the hour+ trip only a few kilometers from the airport laughing and listening to Indonesian music the whole way.   I saw some beautiful fountains, an accident with a person splayed out on the road, and lots of rain.  Sheets of it.  The motorbikes raced on however- people wear raincoats large enough to fit a small family to cover them on a bike in the rain. It didn’t stop them so why would it stop me?

It actually rained most of the time I was there but it didn’t matter- we could take refuge in cheerful cafes with walls that didn’t slide, bend or roll up at the corners.   I could use my credit card (hallelujah!) and we could order anything on the menu and were served at the same time.  It was truly heaven.  This meal-gado gado- was a vegetarian cabbage roll served on a warm peanut sauce with sliced grilled tofu and tempeh.  It was as good as it looks.

As you probably know by now, East Timor has been its own country since 2002, and though it was once part of Indonesia the two island countries are vastly different.  East Timor is still ruggedly beautiful and undeveloped which makes it charming in a very honest way.  Bali is a beautifully mature place with rich traditions commanding a devout respect from its visitors.  The beach is lovely and a picturesque mix of white sand and blue blue water, and surfers.  Lots of surfers.  There is also a mix of shops, great restaurants, villas and luxury resorts.  The best part is- it is very reasonably priced.  It was a welcome 2 day respite.  


The area closest to the airport is Kuta, which, though I haven’t been there- reminds me of Cancun over spring break.  The Hard Rock Café (which I detest), a huge mall, tons of nightclubs, prostitutes and drug pushers fill the streets creating an exciting mix of disgust and wonderment.  It’s not high on my list.  

The quieter area, Seminyak, is where we stayed and is closer to what I imagined Bali to be- charming streets, temples tucked away in alleys with beautiful offerings and incense, children playing, and happy people who pass you with a smile and their palms pressed together with a little bow from the torso. Walking down the street one smells wafts of more heady incense, toasted rice, lemongrass and frangipani trees. 


Guardians outside the neighborhood temples are wrapped with this traditional checked cloth. 

This tiger belonged to a pair who guarded the golden door to one of the three temples on our street. 


Bailenese Hinduism is the most common religion and each day every shop and every house makes these offerings to their gods.  There are heaps of marigolds, coins, rice and other goodies given several times a day.  It is so very beautiful.

This is a picture of our private villa, for which I paid $27.50 per night.  I had my own room, bathroom (with outdoor shower) and of course this lovely pool and tropical garden.  We shared the outdoor space with cute geckos and lots of birds I didn't recognize, but enjoyed watching.  At night bats flew over us in the pool as they began their quest for dinner.

Birds of Paradise- in paradise- in the garden next to our pool.

We saw beautiful handmade tapestries.

  
As they do with plastic water bottles in Timor, in Bali it is common to see petrol for motorbikes sold at roadside stands like this one.  The Absolut bottles were quite classy.

Our last night we went to Potato Head- an amazing resort with several dining options overlooking the ocean.  We sat outside for a cocktail (my Manhattan was made with house infused cinnamon bourbon) and then moved up one step to a platform that afforded a better view of the Olympic sized infinity pool, beautifully landscaped green space, palm trees and flowers, and enjoyed the moon glowing over the crashing waves.  It was without a doubt one of the best views I have ever experienced.  The food was amazing and dinner discussion among mixed company and new friends focused on the perception of love between the sexes.  All in all a very satisfying, enlightening evening, and 2 day trip to a beautiful island I plan to visit again very soon.