in need of an adjustment

For all of you who know me well, you know how important chiropractic is to me.  I grew up in a family of chiropractors and have been receiving chiropractic care since I was a small child. My family business works with chiropractors to support their patients bodies from their feet up, using custom-made foot orthotics.  We support the chiropractic profession and I miss being so close to such important, holistic healthcare option for people who want to be drug-free and let their bodies heal themselves.  I drink the Kool-Aid, y'all.  


Aside from being extremely sad to leave my family and friends to move to Dili, I had serious reservations about coming here because there are no chiropractors in Timor-Leste (that I know about).  I went to a Pilates class tonight that confirmed this.  Sad, very sad.


The feeling I get after a great cervical spine and extremities adjustment is like no other feeling.  I breathe deeper, stand taller and can relish in the fact that my nervous system is alive, well and functioning better than it was before my adjustment.  It is my alternative to ibuprofen, Claritin, and valium.  It quiets the mind and warms the heart.  It makes me a better person.


My passion for chiropractic is genetic, no doubt.  My grandfather was drafted for WWII and received a bad vaccine.  Out of the group of 150 young men who died, he was the only survivor.  He was in an iron lung for 6 months and prayed to die.  As a last resort his mother brought in a chiropractor and he thought his prayers were answered because chiropractors didn't have the best reputation...


After 2 adjustments he walked out of the hospital. 


Many people have experienced similarly inspiring, life-changing experiences from chiropractic care.  Though I have not had something that dramatic happen to me (thank goodness) I can say how much I miss my bimonthly visits to my chiropractor.  The Dili Hash, sitting at desks that aren't ergonomically correct (let alone level), and losing your footing on the crumbling roads and potholes the size of small elephants can do a number on you and I need an adjustment.  


Can someone please persuade a DC to move to Dili?  We have coconuts!

wish trees

The most beautiful trees here in Timor are the Banyan trees.  For those of you who enjoy climbing trees- these are for you.  They line the main street along the water and provide impressive shade during the heat of the day.   They are breathtakingly beautiful.


They are the same trees that cover Angkor Wat in Cambodia (the ones Lara Croft climbs) and are considered sacred in South Asia, particularly to Hindus and Buddhists. 

In Hindu mythology, the Banyan tree is known as the wish tree. It represents eternal life because of its seemingly ever-expanding branches and unbelievably large bundles of hundreds of spindly trunks.  In the Bhagavad Gita, Krishna uses the Banyan tree as a symbol to describe the true meaning of life.  

It also represents eternal life because it supports its expanding canopy by growing special roots from its branches.  These roots hang down and act as props over an ever widening circle of wonderfully knobby shoots.  They have the ability to survive and grow for centuries. 

A bird may drop a seed into the leaves of an existing tree where it grows and sends
down long rope-like roots that gradually thicken and embrace the host tree.

This tree is also sacred to the Buddhists. After attaining enlightenment, Buddha is believed to have sat under a Banyan tree for 7 days, absorbed in his newfound realization.

I hear there are 2 monkeys who live in the last Banyan tree at the end of the beach promenade.  I will find them.

dili hash

I am proud to say that I am now part of the Dili Hash House Harriers ("an international drinking club with a running problem").  Every Saturday around 4pm anyone who wants to run can join the group for a $5 fee, which covers the beer after the run (and sometimes dinner) and takes you through various city and mountainous courses with a group of approximately 50 likeminded, [CRAZY] local and expatriate (thirsty) runners.  

The past two weeks I have joined Dili Hash have been "tame" I am told.  There is always an initiation for new members which consists of making them kneel in front of the group while a fictitious/embarrassing (or both) story is told about the person to introduce them to the group. 

I was introduced with a clever lie about my reason for moving to Dili- "purchasing old shipping containers to resell as shabby chic ecohousing."  Depending on the person's real job (and if that is actually revealed as many times it is not), sometimes people pour various beverages on them because they want them to feel "extra welcome."  This happens often with lawyers.  

There is a grand puba of sorts (yes he does normally wear a special vest and outfit and a top hat which he had to remove to drink this beer through the pvc pipe arm restraint to the left).  He is in charge of mapping the course, the beer stop logistics, as well as the post-run hydration sessions that mostly involve drinking copious amounts of alcohol and badgering obscinities from witty Aussies with extremely colorful vocabularies.  It is very amusing.

This is one of the most fun group of people I have ever met.  Aside from my book club.

Let me insert here that I have not partaken in these events as extensively as I describe them.  I simply want you to understand the full breadth of debauchery that goes on.  I remain a moderate participant.

This week, we ran along the beach and then kayaked out through a course with buoys.  I of course assumed it was a race and started off with force and determination.  I finished first, only to discover that it was not a race.  But I won!?  I got over myself and had a cold beer and watched the sun set.

Throughout the week anyone who is a part of the Hash group has an opportunity to become an "offender" by doing something stupid.  Then, another Hasher calls the person on it in front of the group and you become a public offender and must be reprimanded.  As you can see from the below photo, the "offenders" are forced to simultaneously imbibe whatever anyone puts in their cup which is attached to a board as they are cheered by the other Hashers.  I'm new, so that hasn't happened to me yet.  Thank goodness. 

Two weeks from now is the red dress run.  Everyone (males and females) must wear a red dress and we run through the city looking like idiots much to the delight of the locals.  I'm sure I will have a lot to share with you after that one.

saturday stroll

Today has been the most gorgeous Saturday.  I woke up and was at tetum class at 8:30am despite my intense enjoyment of Friday night wee into the hours of Saturday morning.  Well done me.  My teacher Mario taught us the five W's and how to us the possessive.  For example, "Hau nian serveja"- "That is my beer!"



After class I headed out on a stroll to take pictures of the beautiful things I see when I run but obviously can't capture because I don't have a camera.  In the park from a few posts back here, I happened upon a Timorese wedding.  I have an affinity for weddings and the happiness they bring to everyone involved. It really is a triumph that everyone can enjoy- love conquering all.  It gives us all hope- in everything!  This beautiful couple were gracious enough to let me take their picture.  I got their email and sent them this photo and some others.  They must have been extremely hot in the suit, dress and gloves.  Love doesn't care if it's 90 degrees and 85% humidity, I suppose.








Then I stopped for a coconut.

And some red bananas.

And then met these nice boys.

And this little girl.

And then bought a pineapple from this man.  

Then, I looked for a place to live (again).  I decided not to live here.

Even though it has this amazing door.

And after a day of swimming a good distance in the ocean and kayaking into the reef, I enjoyed this sunset. 

Boa noite!

take two

I couldn't let the only thing I posted today be about Justin Bieber and a snail.  So I leave you with this.  I found it on the beach in Maubara on Sunday and it's perfect.  

The little things in life are what make it sparkle.

justin bieber is alive and well

Today was a productive, beautiful, hot, lovely day.  My morning was spent reviewing a Media Survey and more procurement documents.  Then I went to the most fabulous place to eat lunch- Tropical Island (there I go again!) Cafe and Bakery.  I had the best carrot juice and red chicken curry with lychee fruit served over sliced cucumbers.  Oh yes, I will go back.


During the course of the day I observed two interesting things:


1.)  On my way to work (I walked, thank you very much) I saw the largest snail I have ever seen in my life.  It was bigger than my hand, though you probably can't tell from this picture.  


It made me want to bake it in its shell with butter and garlic and call it a day, but I settled for it making my morning.  I ate a banana and was satisfied with that.


2.)  On my way back from a meeting at the Ministry of Finance (yes, I still want to call it the Ministry of Magic- good thing I didn't make that mistake in front of the important people visiting from DC today) we passed a microlet bus with a screen printed sunshade of the face of Justin Bieber on the back window.  I am kicking myself I didn't take a picture.  It was brilliant.  I was confused for a brief second and then it made sense that finally!, the Bieber empire- the cologne, body wash, hair products, electric toothbrushes, temporary tattoos, hats, shoes, bedding, panty liners and anything else that can be sold in a gas station to do with Justin had made its way to Timor-Leste.  Huzzah! 


It was obvious the sunshade had been there a while- it was faded and at least 3 years old- it was clearly during Justin's pre-teen years- before the pierced ears and the 2 facial hairs he has now, but that shiny warm up jacked with the multicolored collar and furrowed brow and angry/sexy pout were unmistakable.  He's perfected the look over some time I think, perhaps thanks to Selena Gomez?  WHY do I know so much about this? 


The only redeeming quality about this bus was that on the other (albeit smaller) back window was also a sun screen of the Stones 40 Licks album cover.  Even if it was in the smaller of the 3 back windows, it negated (some of) that ridiculousness that is Justin Bieber.  But the real question remains: how can someone who can appreciate the musical genius of the Rolling Stones know and care who Justin Bieber is?  I intend to find out.  And of course continue to fight corruption.

IndoVision puh-lease!

So I get 4 channels here in my hotel room.  BBC, BBC, TLC, and IndoVision.  Yes the first 2 channels are the same, but the second BBC channel isn't fuzzy like the first, so it really is like having 3 channels.  Score (three) for the English speaker.


My most favorite channel is IndoVision.  It's currently showing all the TV shows that played in the US over the last few years.  For example Glee just premiered.  So at a minimum, to my local friends (all 2 of them) I'm not just knowledgable, I'm prophetic. I wish sports were on here- I would win a ton of money.


I also love the local music video commercial breaks.  And the advertisements for the freeze dried milk crack me up too.  People seem so excited to mix it with water- it just makes me happy.  And there is this amazing Knorr product I've never seen in the US that is a gel flavor packet for sauces. Or maybe it does exist?   Either way- genius!  I can't wait to move into a place with a kitchen and buy some.  Veggie stir fry here I come.


The Bachelorette kills me.  It's the season with that dumb girl Ashley with the bad bangs and the weird guy who wears the face mask and I just can't watch it.  (That's right- I know that much from the preview commercials).  I didn't watch it in the US and I won't watch it here.  I heard whoever she chose she's already broken up with anyway (shocker).  Though she does drive a sweet Maserati in the show and that reminds me- I need to buy a car.  I saw a sweet Mini Nissan Pajero the other day.......4 wheel drive....pleather seats.  Mmmmm.


However, the BEST show on IndoVision is by FAR Junior Master Chef Australia.  For those of you obsessed with the Food Network like I am, it's basically like Top Chef, but with kids who compete in teams to serve their creations to the Australian version of Tom Colicchio and his cracksquad of savvy, discriminating paletted chefs.  Kids are cute in general, but kids who cook are precious.  Kids with accents who cook- come on.  I'm done.


American Idol: "The Most Gorgeous Event of All."  That's the slogan for the show here.  IndoVision interviews people who are the show's "biggest fans," and they try to convince you to watch it by telling you that "their favorite part about Idol is J.Lo's big sexy hair," or the "crazy outfits those contestants wear!"  I'm not quite convinced yet, but came close earlier when a guy was going on how cool Stephen Tyler's leather pants were.  Maybe tomorrow.

avoid the dog kebabs

Day 7  (officially 1 week!)  

My biggest victory of the day? Avoiding the dog kebabs at lunch.  

I walked to a little Indonesian place near my office and had a fairly palatable lunch, complete with properly steamed and perfectly oh-so-sticky rice, papaya flowers- which are very bitter but are said to ward off malaria (I obviously inhaled them- they are definitely bitter), and some sort of piece of fish that I didn't end up eating- yeesh.  I am pointing and smiling selecting cruciferous treats as I move down the line and then I arrive at the meat section and my eyes fall squarely onto a dish of "RW" kebabs.  Oh. My. Gosh.  I knew I would be faced with this predicament at some point but I wasn't prepared for it to happen- so soon.

Early on (as in 4 days ago) my friend advised me of 2 very important things upon arrival in Dili:

1.) I can't remember the first but I am sure I will at some point.

2.) Don't order anything on the menu called "RW."  It's dog.

Luckily in the heat of the day I remembered this and used the universally recognized frowning face/head shaking/hand motion trifecta signaling, "no, but thank you!  If you want to eat Fido go ahead but don't put that stick on my plate!"   Victory.  I watched her put the spoonful of diced tomato garnish on my plate as we continued on past the kebab, and blacked out for a moment before I paid my $5 for the food that wasn't dog.

I have eaten dog before (in China over a decade ago) but it was accidental and so I don't even think about it.  Nonetheless, it's already checked off the "list" if you will (and I will).  So, no RW sticks for me.

The rest of my day was pretty tame.  I made a lot of progress on revising a media survey that will be in great shape by the end of the week, and also on some procurement reading.  Fun stuff.

Ah, what will tomorrow bring?

by the sea

The most amazing thing about living on a tropical island (yes I intend to keep saying that until it gets old, and no, I don't think it will) is that you are always very close to the water.  


Currently I am staying at the Plaza Hotel (no affiliation with the 5 star NYC landmark) which is great because it is one block from the beach.  It also has AC, which is a huge plus.  This is what the walk to the beach looks like:

When I go for my morning run there are less people and it is still. There is a very secure quiet across the city before the motorbikes and taxis and rush begins.  It's my favorite time to go out.  The water is just beyond the park to the right. 

So I run along a bit further and see this soccer field/basketball court always filled with groups of men and boys playing basketball.  People are active here and there always seems to be something going on.

I wonder what would happen if I were to run up and join in?  

Did I mention I don't play soccer?

boy on the beach

Cristo Rei.

i like coconuts...

Day 3

I went for a walk to the market this morning and enjoyed THIS:

 Yes, it was delicious.  

I watched the man with the cart full of these green shiny balls of hydration filled with the most delightful, refreshing coconut water hack off the top and the sides with skill and a shiny machete.  It was good.

Though you can't tell from this picture, it was definitely the size of 2 of my heads (yes, I have a large brain).  

But for $1- you can't beat it.

And one needs to be hydrated on a tropical island, no?

welcome to dili

After many many many hours of travel (48 to be exact- including crossing the international date line) I have finally made it to Dili.  What a hard trip.  I don't really remember it because it was pretty stressful starting off with an entire leg canceled 15 minutes before leaving Roanoke and I stayed awake for so much of it I may have inadvertently blacked out.  Not to worry- I decided to visit my homeland, and went through Europe via Frankfurt instead of Japan.  I eventually got to Singapore and then finally Dili.  All I can say is- it's HOT here.  Like slap your mamma hot (sorry mom).  I stepped off the plane and immediately started sweating. This is fantastic, especially because I already smelled of plane and fried chicken from the 2 days of travel without a shower and the lovely "snack" we got on the way to Dili.  

The Dili airport reminded me a lot of Baghdad-- we land on a tarmac miles away from the terminal (ok maybe not miles- but far) and there is group of about 12 soldiers with AK-47s slumped over a crumbling wall trying to shield themselves from the sun under the lip of the walkway which, in reality only covered 1 inch of where they were seated.  Drat!  They all greeted us with squinty eyes and bushy mustache stares and a general look of indifference.  Welcome to Timor-Leste they meant to say!

At this point I'm so sleep deprived but my adrenaline is surging and I am so excited to be here.  I am smiley and talking to more people than I probably should.  "What do you do here? Oh you work for the UN?  Yes, that sounds very important.  I look forward to getting to know you, fellow foreigner!"

After getting my 30 day visa I claimed my 2 huge bags (read: 89 and 71 lbs respectively- and no, USAir didn't charge me extra baggage fees!). I was absolutely shocked that 1.) they arrived at all given the massive changes made to my ticket before leaving Virginia, 2.) they arrived together, 3.) they arrived undamaged and 4.) they arrived seemingly unpilfered.  

Out of the baggage claim area I trot, with my 2 ungodly large pieces of luggage, my carry-on (which, at 21 kilos I almost didn't get on the plane at JFK), my computer bag, and my "purse" which was bigger than my rolling carry-on.  How's that for packing light?

I emerge into the hotter, but open-aired part of the airport.  Oh wait- the entire thing is open-air.  Yes, that's right this is Asia.  And we are equatorial.  No roof for us.  Welcome to our tropical island.

We collect the other person I'm traveling with, get to our hotel, check in, and then take a walk.  At this point I remember moving but don't remember exactly where we went or how I actually managed to move, or what was said.  I was basically comatose.  It rained towards the end of the walk and as we parked the car and went into Saigon Vietnamese place for dinner, we enjoyed this view up the beach.

Welcome to Timor-Leste.  

And it was good.