the usual

It's Thursday and I feel good.  After a really long but productive week I can say I feel really good about things. I haven't been posting as much because I have been busy doing.  I've gotten into a nice routine now that I have a CAR which has afforded me the luxury of going to many places and meet people that would have otherwise been a major inconvenience.  Hallelujah!


On Monday after work I played tennis with a friend at some "courts" near my compound that are in a somewhat residential neighborhood.  Oddly enough we were still surrounded by chicken coops filled with fighting cocks- at least 4 of them.  They were fighting the entire hour and a half we were playing.  While we volleyed we also had the pleasure of listening to Usher and other various top 40 hits blasting from all corners of the house closest to the cement block where we were playing.  Once the neighborhood found out we were there we quickly had an audience of seemingly well intentioned teenage boys (yeah right have you met teenage boys?) with English vocabulary limited to specific tennis commentary and sporting words of encouragement.  They shouted random scores at us even though we weren't playing a game. They sat in the linesman's chair and pointed and shouted when they believed a ball was in or out (which has nothing to do with where it was on the court at the time).  "40 love!" was a popular choice, and was "tie!"  After every hit it was a rotation of  "good job!" or "nice try!" or my favorite- "faster faster!"  Needless to say it was all very surreal- quite different from what I imagine Wimbledon to be.  After tennis I went home and made homemade pesto (yes I found basil at a local market AND pine nuts- pinch me I'm in heaven) that I put over an al dente farfalle pasta with tomatoes, bacon, and fresh mozzarella.  


After work on Tuesday I climbed up to the top of the Jesus statue at Cristo Rei  (read: amazing leg workout- there are a million stairs) and saw an amazing sunset with a friend.  After our calorie burning adventure we stopped at an amazing Vietnamese restaurant (I have decided Saigon is now my favorite place in Timor) and shared seafood stew (squid, fish, shrimp, noodles, yum) and these paper thin beef pancakes with this addictive soy/fish/chili sauce that you want to drink with a spoon.  


Last night I collected the most amazing shells I've ever found on a quasi-exercise-getting walk on the beach and saw one of the prettiest sunsets I've seen in Timor from a new vantage point.  Following this outing was a Thai dinner of fresh green papaya salad with carrots and chilies and peanuts.  Am I making you jealous and hungry?  


We are getting closer and closer to the end of rainy season so my new ride is less dusty and in desperate need of a cleaning. A $3 hand wash will restore it to it's pristine pre-duststorm glory.  


Other than that life is moving along at a nice cadence and though work is (often) frustrating I am genuinely happy to be here.  I haven't gotten robbed, or contracted malaria or dengue.  I've made good friends and am doing my best in my job, which despite its many challenges is also going well.  I produce the first of a few major deliverables last week and can now look to start developing the materials that will be the main focus of my work while I am here.  Very satisfying and encouraging for me.


This weekend I am facilitating a workshop on gender and corruption for 50-80 people (yikes!) on Saturday morning, which should be awesome.  


Here ends my most boring post yet.  I'll at least leave you with a cute picture of these boys at the Tais Market.

yup, still pretty here

Yes, my weekends are still gloriously sunny and sandy.  I work hard during the week and instead of going to a movie or a museum or a festival or a concert, when I'm not in the office I come here.  It's pretty perfect and 15 minutes away from my apartment door.


God is good.

bird of paradise?

I was sitting in my office at the Ministry this morning when my colleague brought in a bird that had fallen outside.  He was nonchalantly chatting holding it in his hand, stroking its (probably) broken neck. People were passing it around and then the proceeded to put it in a plastic bag and let it sit on a desk (right next to the giant copier which was going full on) in the bag for a while.  You know- while they finished their chat.

So this bird is freaking out because it's in a bag inside a building with a lot of chatty people and it's probably got some sort of bird concussion anyway.  And then the guy leaves work to take the bird-in-bag to his house to set it free (was it not free outside the Ministry?) which will likely take an hour or 5.

My morning was more interesting than yours, I bet.

2 months

Today is my 2 month anniversary in Timor-Leste.  It has been a great 2 months, despite the many challenges.  I've met many lovely new friends, I have been on many adventures and will certainly go on many more.  Here's to you Timor-Leste- and to this new chapter of my life and everything ahead. 

elections

Elections are upon us here in Timor-Leste.  In 2 days people will go to the polls and cast their ballot for the first round of the Presidential primary elections.

Things are chaotic and loud and there is quite an impressive level of excitement. Today's rally was the loudest which makes me wonder what tomorrow will hold.  People drive down the streets in large trucks full of supporters waving flags, honking, screaming, speeding and campaigning for their most favored hoping he will be their next President.

I'm bringing my camera to work tomorrow.

swept away

Well- almost swept away.


It is the rainy season here from November to May(ish) and it has rained almost every day- mostly light showers usually in the afternoon, with the occasional downpour.  However, the last few days have been epic.


The Ministry of Public Works thought it would be a good idea to, in the rainy season, rip up the main stretch of beach road which is one of two (2!) main roads in the entire city, two weeks before the first Presidential primary, which is on Saturday (we are paying homage to our Irish roots here, thank you very much and Happy St. Patrick's Day).  Why was this not done in the dry season when the could work on the road every day when there is no rain in order to complete it faster and not inconvenience the public so?  


This isn't being done with night crews or a "patch at a time" like other parts of the world might strategize.  They literally went through and jackhammered and bulldozed the roads over a period of 2 days for about a 15 km stretch of road.  Absurd!  There isn't even any section of the road partitioned off to protect traffic from the heavy machinery. It's a free-for-all, in a muddy, bumpy, terrible stretch of road that is driving everyone is Dili absolutely mad.

Braving the monsoon-like conditions, on my way home today the rain was pounding the mud soaked roads and waves were crashing over the footer onto the road as we creaked along at 10 km/hour to my apartment.  The wiper blades of my taxi were held together by zip ties with untrimmed tails that could have been braided they were so long, following in the direction as each blade separately jolted across the windshield with a loud groan.  I convinced myself it was a lovely rhythm that, after 10 minutes didn't compete with the crackling static radio coming in and out with Paula Abdul's Straight Up remake by an up and coming Korean pop star.  Yes it was a special cab ride.


As you can see by this photo, thankfully the driver had this handy dishtowelesque-thingy and screwdriver that not only were used to keep the window up and in place, but also to mop the condensation from the inside of the cab and could have been used to screw in that pesky door handle, if you know, we had to really pull over because of flooding.  Hey- it's good to be prepared and to have options.  I was with a quasi-boy scout taxi driver, I told myself.  So there.

arte moris

On Saturday I went to the most wonderful festival at Arte Moris in Comoro.  

Arte Moris is Timor-Leste's first non-profit art school, cultural center and artist association.  

Born from the aftermath of occupation, we celebrated the 9th anniversary of this place that provides opportunities for young Timorese in one of the world's youngest democracies.


Behold the flip flop teapot- my favorite piece!

There was a collaborative graffiti and stenciling area with boards and lots of cans of bright spray paint- very cool.






There was an art exhibition and sale including small & large oil paintings, acrylic paintings, watercolors, mixed media, funky stencils & etchings, hand painted mangrove roots, and photography.  

I absolutely love these little fish bottle tops.

And finally- this gave me such a laugh.  It definitely describes how the gym makes me feel sometimes....

paradise found

I’ve always wanted to take a trip to a tropical island with only a pair of shorts and a swimsuit.  How liberating to just pack a small bag and go.  I officially checked that off my list. 

After working this past Saturday morning I packed the aforementioned items into a much larger bag (I was planning to fuel the local economy after all) and hopped gleefully onto a rickety Merpati flight to the exotic, tropical and gloriously developed island of Bali, Indonesia. 

En route I was nonplussed to begin our descent into Denspar airport with this view.  Never fear!  Not even rain could dampen my mood.

A charming little taxi driver collected me at the airport and we braved the hour+ trip only a few kilometers from the airport laughing and listening to Indonesian music the whole way.   I saw some beautiful fountains, an accident with a person splayed out on the road, and lots of rain.  Sheets of it.  The motorbikes raced on however- people wear raincoats large enough to fit a small family to cover them on a bike in the rain. It didn’t stop them so why would it stop me?

It actually rained most of the time I was there but it didn’t matter- we could take refuge in cheerful cafes with walls that didn’t slide, bend or roll up at the corners.   I could use my credit card (hallelujah!) and we could order anything on the menu and were served at the same time.  It was truly heaven.  This meal-gado gado- was a vegetarian cabbage roll served on a warm peanut sauce with sliced grilled tofu and tempeh.  It was as good as it looks.

As you probably know by now, East Timor has been its own country since 2002, and though it was once part of Indonesia the two island countries are vastly different.  East Timor is still ruggedly beautiful and undeveloped which makes it charming in a very honest way.  Bali is a beautifully mature place with rich traditions commanding a devout respect from its visitors.  The beach is lovely and a picturesque mix of white sand and blue blue water, and surfers.  Lots of surfers.  There is also a mix of shops, great restaurants, villas and luxury resorts.  The best part is- it is very reasonably priced.  It was a welcome 2 day respite.  


The area closest to the airport is Kuta, which, though I haven’t been there- reminds me of Cancun over spring break.  The Hard Rock Café (which I detest), a huge mall, tons of nightclubs, prostitutes and drug pushers fill the streets creating an exciting mix of disgust and wonderment.  It’s not high on my list.  

The quieter area, Seminyak, is where we stayed and is closer to what I imagined Bali to be- charming streets, temples tucked away in alleys with beautiful offerings and incense, children playing, and happy people who pass you with a smile and their palms pressed together with a little bow from the torso. Walking down the street one smells wafts of more heady incense, toasted rice, lemongrass and frangipani trees. 


Guardians outside the neighborhood temples are wrapped with this traditional checked cloth. 

This tiger belonged to a pair who guarded the golden door to one of the three temples on our street. 


Bailenese Hinduism is the most common religion and each day every shop and every house makes these offerings to their gods.  There are heaps of marigolds, coins, rice and other goodies given several times a day.  It is so very beautiful.

This is a picture of our private villa, for which I paid $27.50 per night.  I had my own room, bathroom (with outdoor shower) and of course this lovely pool and tropical garden.  We shared the outdoor space with cute geckos and lots of birds I didn't recognize, but enjoyed watching.  At night bats flew over us in the pool as they began their quest for dinner.

Birds of Paradise- in paradise- in the garden next to our pool.

We saw beautiful handmade tapestries.

  
As they do with plastic water bottles in Timor, in Bali it is common to see petrol for motorbikes sold at roadside stands like this one.  The Absolut bottles were quite classy.

Our last night we went to Potato Head- an amazing resort with several dining options overlooking the ocean.  We sat outside for a cocktail (my Manhattan was made with house infused cinnamon bourbon) and then moved up one step to a platform that afforded a better view of the Olympic sized infinity pool, beautifully landscaped green space, palm trees and flowers, and enjoyed the moon glowing over the crashing waves.  It was without a doubt one of the best views I have ever experienced.  The food was amazing and dinner discussion among mixed company and new friends focused on the perception of love between the sexes.  All in all a very satisfying, enlightening evening, and 2 day trip to a beautiful island I plan to visit again very soon.

new digs

A few days into my being here (end of January) I started looking for a place to live.   During 7 different outings, I visited over 30 places across Dili.  Missions such as house hunting, fact-finding, organizing things, redecorating and anything having to do with nesting are usually right up my alley and this was no exception.  I braced myself, and left my hotel room with a fist full of $1 bills (for taxis), my camera and the map.  I was an explorer in search of the perfect place.  I ended up walking almost the entire length of the shoreline on the map to the left.  


I trudged through pig farms, burning trash piles and mud to be shown places like this that could have worked for me, except for the fact that the water was untreated and had left an unsightly red rash on the current tenant's leg.  No thanks.

This place was OK except that in the bathroom one needed to straddle the toilet to take a shower because the shower head was attached to the wall above the toilet.  Obviously there was no need for a shower curtain or any "extras" there- an opportunity to save some money!  I passed on this one as well.

Though not pictured I also saw a place that was built entirely underground with no natural light or windows, nor no overhead or lamp light.  Were they expecting to rent to bats?  I had to borrow my friend's cigarette lighter to "look" at the apartment.  Though wireless was included, I passed on this one too.


My favorite place in terms of location was the cute yellow compound next to the sea.  I could have thrown a rock into the ocean from the back door.  And there were hammocks. The outdoor "kitchen" consisted of a refrigerator (the college sized ones where you could only usually only fit a twelve-pack and some leftover mac and cheese with a "freezer" just big enough for a dozen jello shots in the manufacturers ice tray) plugged into the side of the wall on a screened in porch.  And of course a piece of plywood on a sawhorse for "food prep."  I don't consider myself a particularly picky cook (ok who are we kidding I am a bossy kitchen nazi) but I had to draw the line here.


So, after 30+ visits to places with the qualities of those mentioned above you probably understand why I heard little angels playing harps on tiny clouds of happiness when I saw this one.  


Note the walls are solid and you can't see to the outside anywhere. Drywall is finished properly which is useful for preventing an infestation of mosquitoes or centipedes (which can grow to the size of your palm- gooooood morning in my shower!).  These have become important amenities.


I do not have an oven but I do have a 2 burner hotplate.  Granted, the utilities are not included and it is a pain in the ass to get the gas tank ($35 a month), but worth it to be able to cook.  Oh- AND I have a microwave and a brand new A/C unit (above doorway).  I know, I know- don't brag.

As you can see, my fridge also has a freezer.  Just call me Circuit City.

So, though this tiny little place is equivalent to what you would pay in NYC for a crappy loft, because I can't see or smell pigs, cattle, goats, chickens or marsupials, it has 24 hour security and a pool, it continues to be a place I call home (for the duration of my 6-month lease of course).